In the Mist

Written by  //  February 8, 2012  //  latest  //  No comments

In the Mist…it’s been several weeks since I made it into the sea. My last visit to the Peniche peninsula was somewhat hampered by cranial mucous infestations so I was relegated to photographer on this obscenely offshore day at Molho Leste.

I miss surfing when I’m landlocked. I miss the connection with the sea. I miss the water on my body. I miss that magical moment when your board sweeps perfectly to the lip of the wave just as it’s pitching over and the power drives up through your legs and body and gets transferred into speed, movement and adrenalin. I even miss that moment when you push a rail too hard, your fins lose their grip and the sea claims another wipeout victory…

I didn’t surf today – but I did think about it when the brain weevils weren’t eating my head too loudly…
Papersurfer

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Papersurfer. Diary of a middle aged surfer – age 38 and a half.

 

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